“Surfing recreates you. I went into the water literally ready to blow my brains out and came back out of the water a warrior.” ~ Doc Paskowitz (Click to tweet)
How long should it take to learn to surf? It’s difficult to know. It is, it seems, a monstrous task for anyone who’s not twelve.
From Cornwall to Santander to Biarritz, I have snatched and grabbed at surfing for years: a day here, a stag-do there, the occasional long weekend flash-flooding my sinuses and wishing something that looks so cool would be so much easier for the rest of us. Until recently, it had been a frustrating journey.
Then, I had one of those perfect days where everything that I had to remember to remember was right where I needed it to be. As the waves rolled in along Engenhoca beach in Brazil, I felt everything that surfing had ever promised.
I grinned like a loon.
Posted in Fitness, Travel
Tagged acai, Bahia, beginner surfing, bending colours, brasil, coconuts, engenhoca, Itacare, laird hamilton, learn to surf, praia, surf, surf tips, surfwise
Dan Leydon is the classiest footy illustrator out there. If you’re ever stuck for a birthday gift for a mate, just click this picture.
There’s a key to developing a deeper appreciation of the football of Barcelona.
All you have to do is ask the experts; the men who’ve spent years studying – not just watching – how Barcelona got to where we see them today.
Guillem Balagué is the author Pep Guardiola: Another Way of Winning: The Biography, which was published in 2012.
He’s a man in the know.
Posted in Football, Writing
Tagged barcelona tactics, cruyff, graham hunter, guardiola, guillem balague, iniesta, jimmy burns, koeman, kubala, messi, michels, pep, phil ball, rexach, samitier, sky sports, stoichkov, xavi
Some say Brazil’s a dangerous place. On my first days in the Bahian surf town Itacaré, where the mouth of the Rio de Contas meets the Atlantic Ocean, I was mugged, as it were, by the contrast between two things. The first was the shit-out-of-luck search for a newspaper; a situation which is foreign to anyone who’s lived a life in cities. And just as I was getting used - warming, even – to the idea of living in a more detached, straightforward part of the world, came the second. Over beers with locals, I was struck by the recurring turn, “É complicado aqui” (It’s complicated here).
As a region, Bahia is a vast northeastern chunk of Atlantic coast, pocked with coconut groves, cacao plantations, summer heat and clammy-hands humidity. Bays flutter with reggae and football; boats haul fresh catches into bustling markets, surfers carve their paths. Waterfalls and bastard mosquitoes abound. Kids have kites. Marijuana. To the uninitiated, so it goes: there is absolutely nothing complicated here.